We are a Swedish premium men's shoe store in Stockholm. Our brands include Carmina Shoemaker, Gaziano & Girling, Edward Green and Enzo Bonafé. www.skoaktiebolaget.se

Shoemakers in a new world

We live in a world were small, little-known shoemakers have to be skilled in using social media channels in hopes of ever reaching a wider audience outside their home country or even home town. Easily put they don’t have the necessary financial capacity to advertise their products in any other way. Two well-known success stories are Saint Crispin’s and J. FitzPatrick Footwear.The first has produced top quality shoes in Transylvania since the 90’s but it was not until renowned shoe stores like Leather Soul and Leffot not to mention The Armoury started promoting them through their well-established social media channels that they reached International success. Before this they were almost unknown outside of Austria and Germany.

J. FitzPatrick Footwear is a newly established company that has taken a different route to reach a wider audience even though this has also been done through social media channels. Justin FitzPatrick is mainly known through his vastly popular blog The Shoe Snob; a source of inspiration to many of us who love shoes. Through a very sympathetic personality and a knack for social media marketing he has come from nowhere to found his new brand J. FitzPatrick Footwear. From nowhere is of course an exaggeration, he has trained in Italy to become a shoemaker and has been tutored by Tony Gaziano himself, but it is still a remarkable journey in a very short time. And it has only been possible because of the potential that modern technology presents to us.  

On the other side, we also have very skillful shoemakers who seemingly have no interest or no experience how to reach out through these new and extremely powerful channels to meet new clients. A good example is a brand that we at Skoaktiebolaget recently added to our line-up: Enzo Bonafé of Bologna, Italy. Try to find them on Instagram, Tumblr or Twitter. Here are a few other interesting shoemakers that we would like to mention that are hard to find but easy to love.

Antonio Meccariello, Naples 
I could not get the English section of Antonio’s website to work so I basically have no background at all to share with you (other than that I now know he fancies saxophone music). Obviously the man is active in Naples, is in his thirties or so and has had some kind of connection with Kiton where I think he used to work before starting up his own business. Meccariello’s models range from sublime to deranged. All shoes are made-to-order. It should be said that Mr. Meccariello is active in social media channels like Tumblr, but he has not yet reached the level of success as above mentioned brands.

 
Sublime wingtip from Meccariello…


…and on the other hand, deranged boots from Meccariello.

Maftei, Vienna 
Alexander Maftei is a Romanian born gentleman who immigrated to Vienna as a teenager where he soon found employment at a renowned shoemaker’s workshop. Several decades later has his own workshop and brand and is considered a master at his craft although he is largely unknown to a wider audience. His son Lucian runs a showroom nearby the workshop where you can sample some of Alexander’s work and make appointments for a fitting. The Maftei  style runs from sturdy Austro-Hungarian shoes to sleeker models suited for the International client. To my knowledge Maftei does not make ready-to-wear shoes, only bespoke and MTO.


Interesting Balmoral from Maftei


Details of a Maftei bespoke pair 

Materna, Vienna
This is another interesting Austrian brand, founded in 1907 and still run by the same family. With Materna Schuhe we’re talking Austro-Hungarian shoes that are built for comfort and a good fit, not maybe so much appeal to an International client or the “sprezz crowd”. It’s very rewarding to see different types of schools of shoemaking even though I personally prefer styles that are a little less sturdy than the classic Materna models I’ve come across through browsing on the Internet.

Of course, there are many more fine shoemakers that deserve acknowledgement and respect, but I am sure that if you dig deep enough and venture past the #wiwt tags on Instagram and the Tumblr posts that have been shared over a thousand times I’m sure you will find them. They are waiting for you deep down, at the bottom of some thread in StyleForum or AskAndy that has not been posted in since 2008. Or maybe, just maybe, you will find them someday at Skoaktiebolaget.

Written by Patrik, founder and manager of Skoaktiebolaget.


Note: pictures were found on various places on the internet, please drop us a line if you own the copyright and wish to remove the pictures. 

dandyshoecare:

The Brothers Karamazov
by Dandy Shoe Care

Another master piece custom patina job by our friend in Italy.

dandyshoecare:

The Brothers Karamazov

by Dandy Shoe Care

Another master piece custom patina job by our friend in Italy.

(Source: dandyshoecare.it)

Here are a few Edward Green MTOs that arrived recently. As you can see, Dark Oak is a very popular color, even for MTOs.

Some new models in store and online now at www.skoaktiebolaget.se

New Enzo Bonafé model in store.

A few Edward Green made to order shoes came in earlier today: Ullswater in Burgundy, Hove in Dark Oak, Ecton in Pine and last but absolutely not least the Nevis in Dark Oak. 

Dress Codes

We get a lot of questions regarding dress codes in our store. Many people want to know what is considered to be correct attire and footwear at formal events. Basically there are three levels of formality in most Western countries; formal wear, semi-formal wear and informal attire.

Early 1900's formal evening wear.
Early 1900’s formal evening wear. 

Formal wear

This is the most formal dress code. If you are invited to an event where formal wear is the dress code then you’ll be expected to wear morning dress or white tie depending on the time of the event (white tie is considered to be evening wear and morning wear obviously day wear). Patent leather shoes are considered to be the most correct footwear with formal wear. What can also be added is that full dress uniform and national costume is also considered to be formal wear.  

Edward Green patent leather shoes, available as made to order at Skoaktiebolaget. 

Semi-formal wear

This is a dress code mostly used for evening events where black tie, or tuxedo, would be the correct apparel. This is however considered to be evening wear only and should preferably not be worn during the day. On rare occasions you will find this dress code appearing on invitations for daytime events and you would then expected to wear a stroller outfit; black or grey coat and striped or checked trousers, preferably with a waistcoat and grey neck-wear. Although the stroller is mainly an American invention, it will be largely accepted in most parts of the world. A mess dress (military) is also accepted as semi-formal evening wear. Patent leather shoes will be considered correct, but a pair of black oxfords polished to a very high shine will also be accepted along with evening footwear (bow pumps etc).

 
Gaziano & Girling bow pumps, available as made to order at Skoaktiebolaget.

Informal attire

Although this may sound as you can show up in almost anything it’s quite the contrary. You will be expected to wear a navy or charcoal two or three piece suit with a white shirt and neck-wear. A black suit is also acceptable but preferably only as evening wear, because black is considered to be evening wear in most western countries. Always wear a pair of black oxford lace up shoes, like the Carmina model 732 below. People may argue the validity of this claim, but to no avail - in our opinion black oxfords are the most correct footwear with informal attire. That said, feel free to wear burgundy oxfords if you’re feeling rebellious.

Trinity. #carminashoemaker #carmina #cordovan #skoaktiebolaget #shoesporn #mensshoes

frecciabestetti:

Model York, in green suede, RTW line , and their owner.

ethandesu:

The beauty of effort

A little skill, with perseverance, can make the most humble of things better, and truly great things in to art. It is a beautiful thing, to be able to create something with your own hands from very little. 

So it is with polishing shoes. A tin of wax, a cotton ball, a little water - even an ordinary pair of shoes will benefit, while a great shoe will be transformed. I learnt the method I use from a dear friend, using Saphir Wax, a touch of water, to lay fine coat upon fine coat of wax in the parts of a shoe supported by a firm counter - the toe box, the heel, the waist of the sole, the sole edges.

The finished result can range from a deep lustre to a mirror shine, and when colour is played with, can create patina and variation.

My method starts with the Creme Surfine from Saphir, applied to a worn shoe in a fine coat all over. The creme is to restore and nourish, and when applied to a brushed shoe it will restore some colour and richness.

I leave the creme on for a few hours, and use a soft brush to buff the excess creme out. I brush it vigorously, and find after just this step the shoe will have a nice richness. Remember to do the sole edges, and in the welt, as it will all improve upon the look of the shoe.

Using a deer bone, I rub down the sole edges, smoothing them out and restoring some of the inevitable wear that gets to the sole. The smoothed out sole better takes wax and can more quickly shine.

Applying wax is the same regardless of the position on the shoe, just varying amounts of pressure. I use a cotton ball, folded in half to give a flat surface, with a drop of water to smooth down the stray fibres.

Using a very small amount of wax - the pate de luxe and medaille d’or wok best for me - apply fine coats of wax in small circles, buffing and buffing lightly with the cotton ball until you get a light shine. The goal here is to fill the pores of the leather, fine coat after fine coat until you get a high shine.

The best areas to shine are where the leather doesn’t crease - the heel counter, toe box, sole and heel edges, but for every five coats there, give a coat to the body of the shoe so that the variation is subtle, and the whole shoe gleams.

Colour is something to experiment with - with black I mix in a coat of neutral for every 5 or so coats of black. With dark brown I add a coat of black, and with mid to light browns and tans I mix in darker colours and burgundies to add some patina. Experiment is key, and if you are applying wax lightly, you aren’t going to go to wrong.

Polished - Saint Crispin’s Pret Customised.

Some tips on polishing techniques from the man in HK.

(via thearmoury)